Freeman Dolcino 2019 (500ml)

Freeman Vineyards is a boutique family-owned winery in the Hilltops region of New South Wales, renowned for its Italian-inspired wines and pioneering spirit. Founded in 1999 by Dr. Brian Freeman, a former head of wine science at Charles Sturt University. Brian transitioned from academia to winemaking, bringing deep viticultural expertise to the Hilltops region. Situated in Prunevale, Hilltops, at 560 metres above sea level, the vineyard benefits from cool nights and sunny days during ripening, deep granite soils mixed with red silt, sand from central Australia and well-drained terrain, ideal for growing high-quality grapes.

Freeman Vineyards is Australia’s only producer of the northern Italian grape varieties Rondinella and Corvina, used in their flagship Secco. Other Italian varietals include Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Aleatico, Prosecco, Fiano, Pinot Grigio, and an obscure varietal for Australia, Furmint. Their priority is well crafted wines with a focus on textural complexity, balance, and food-friendliness.

Dr Brian Freeman spent much of his life in research and education, in the latter with a role as head of CSU’s viticulture and oenology campus. In ’04 he purchased the neighbouring 30yo Demondrille vineyard, renamed Altura vineyard. He has since acquired several other vineyards within a 10km radius, all adding to the original Hilltops estate. In all, he has 27 varieties that range from staples such as shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, semillon and riesling through to more exotic varieties such as furmint and Italian varieties prosecco, pinot grigio, sangiovese, nebbiolo, rondinella and corvina. -JAMES HALLIDAY

Minimal intervention was deployed in growing the viognier and sauvignon blanc grapes to make this wine. The vines were not pruned, but their skirts were raised to reduce yield, improve airflow within the canopy and achieve a harvestable height. Some vines had 500 bunches before skirting, a high bunch number that reduced berry set and produced very open bunches. The grapes were left to their natural defences through a very dry April (just 4mm of rain). The important noble fungus infection occurred after 48mm of rain fell in May provoking the desirable slow steady botrytis infection unfolding until dry conditions in June.

Dolcino is a blend of these two aromatic varieties. The grapes were harvested, the sauvignon blanc on 6 June and the viognier on 13 June. Half of the grapes displayed the noble fungus infection, while the other grapes were still green.

The grapes were immediately pressed and the meagre juice settled and fermented with natural yeast. Thankfully these yeasts were capable of fermenting the high sugar grapes. The wine was fermented for six months in oak, 20% new and 80% old. The only addition to the wine was a little sulphur at bottling.

THE Wine Companion

Freeman Dolcino 2019 – 95 / 100 Points

Mid-straw gold; a blend of 70% viognier and 30% sauvignon blanc, heady with botrytis – a mix of saffron-infused apricots and pears, sweet lime and cumquat marmalade, honey and honeysuckle, the flavours are plentiful and the palate is silky and long. While certainly sweet, there’s crisp acidity cutting right through this ensuring it remains fresh and lively. 500mls..

– Jane Faulkner