Julien Sunier Morgon Cru Beaujolais 2022

Julien Sunier has gone from being rising star to firmly established as one of the best producers in Beaujolais. Following in the footsteps of pioneers like his friends Marcel Lapierre and Jean-Paul Thévenet he works organically and biodynamically in the vineyard and naturally in the winery. Julien now has 7.5 hectares of organically farmed vines in Regnié, Fleurie and Morgon. When I first visited him in 2016, he emphasised how hard it is to work organically in Beaujolais, and just how back breaking the work can be. ‘We have opportunities to rent because people are getting old,’ says Julien, who talks much more than his younger brother. ‘Young people are beginning to arrive in Beaujolais. It’s pretty trendy and we have a good group of natural winemakers, but when you see the size of the vineyard, we need the young generation to come here.’

He says that organics is rare in Beaujolais because the vineyards are difficult to manage. The issue is manual weed control with the densely planted bush vines. ‘We are very proud to farm organically,’ he says. ‘It is almost double the cost in the vineyard but our price isn’t twice as much.’In his small winery he works semi-carbonically (starting off fermentation carbonically but later pumping over and plunging as you would do in Burgundy), believing that full carbonic can risk losing the terroir. He only adds sulfur dioxide at bottling. Julien’s wines are really elegant and expressive. They have purity and express their terroirs really well.

His Morgon offers exceptional value for money. It is deliciously drinkable on release, but with the structure to age. The grapes, from old vines, come from six different very complementary parcels on the climates “Charmes, Corcelette, Py,” located between 270 and 420 m altitude. Deep and nascently complex with a very precise bouquet of black cherries, pomegranate, fresh thyme and granite minerality. Deep and rich with a fine girdle of acidity, ripe tannins and excellent length. Gorgeous when young–beautiful with age. 12% Alc.

Vineyard: Two parcels; one on the sloped lieu-dit of Corcelette and the other at the edge of the Morgon/Régnié border in a vineyard named En Oeillat. Both parcels were planted in the 1960s. Both are densely planted.